Small button details correspond to clothing of different materials and qualities1
Apr 12, 2023
After the trend of double-breasted buttons started, fashion big-name clothing gradually played new tricks on buttons.
Armani (Armani) narrowed the spacing of the double-breasted, so that the double-breasted suit can also be worn open. Prada (Prada) uses invisible buttons to make the double-breasted suit look more concise and tough. Givenchy (Givenchy) uses buttons of different materials to play magic with details.
Speaking of suit buttons, is the first thing that comes to your mind is how to fasten the buttons?
Today, Xiaoyi will not teach you how to fasten buttons, but wants to talk to you about how to judge the quality of a piece of clothing through the details of buttons.
Because when customizing clothing or buying ready-made clothing, many people judge whether the clothing is good or bad by the quality of the fabric, and often ignore the detail of checking the buttons.
Especially for bespoke garments, buttons can give a bespoke garment a truly bespoke feel.
1 button buttonhole
1.1 Phoenix eyes
Most suits use phoenix eyes as placket buttonholes.
1.2 Buttonholes with white circles are called placket buttonholes
In the tailor-made suits of Savile Row, all the buttonholes are hand-sewn, and the buttons on the cuffs should open 1.3 real buttonholes.
It usually takes 15 minutes to manually lock a buttonhole, and manual locking of buttonholes has become a symbol of social status because of its long working hours. A small buttonhole also takes time to sew by hand, so the workmanship of this suit can be imagined.
1.4 The phoenix eye at the cuff, commonly known as sleeve flower
1.5 The buttonhole on the barge should also pay attention to the quality of its workmanship. The buttonholes on the lapel are made into phoenix eyes, and some are made into straight buttonholes.
1.6 The buttonholes on the lapel, commonly known as flower-arranging eyes, are used for flower arrangement.
2. Straight button door
Straight buttonholes are more common on ordinary clothing such as shirts and knitted cardigans.
Generally, the suit plackets do not use straight button doors. If you see a straight button door on the placket of the suit, you can basically judge that the workmanship of this dress is cut corners. The straight buttonholes on the cuffs are called sleeve flowers, not buttonholes.
3. Buttonhole seams
The fineness of workmanship can be judged by the details of the buttonhole stitching. The stitching of the buttonhole should wrap around the edge of the garment well without any thread dropping.
3.1 The suture of the buttonhole is not handled well, and there are redundant threads
Let’s take Burberry’s windbreaker as an example again for Xiaoyi. The buttonhole seams are smooth and there is no extra thread.
4. Nail thread
4.1 Check whether the button's binding line is neat
There are generally two ways to nail buttons: cross stitch method and double row parallel stitch method.
There is no hard and fast rule on which sewing method to use, but it depends on whether the suture line of the button is flat, whether there is any excess thread, and whether the button can be well fixed.
4.2 Cross stitch method
4.3 Double row parallel seam method
4.4 The wiring is neat and there is no extra thread
Clothes with poor workmanship often ignore the stitching of buttons. When buying clothes, pay attention to check the stitching of the buttons in advance to avoid the embarrassing phenomenon of buttons falling off.
There will be a layer of winding wire at the bottom of the button, called the wrapping foot. The thickness of the foot wrap should be the same as that of the material of the clothes. After the buttons are fastened, it will look flat and wrinkle-free.







